Sizing sewing patterns correctly is crucial for a successful sewing project. It ensures your finished garment fits well and looks professional. This guide will walk you through the essential steps to accurately measure yourself and choose the right pattern size.
Understanding Sewing Pattern Sizing: It’s Not Like Ready-to-Wear!
Many home sewers are surprised to learn that sewing pattern sizes often don’t align with the sizes found on ready-to-wear clothing. This is because patterns are designed with ease for movement and comfort, and they are graded between sizes. Therefore, relying on your usual clothing size can lead to a garment that is too large.
Why Your Ready-to-Wear Size Doesn’t Apply
Ready-to-wear garments are manufactured to fit a broad range of people, often with less emphasis on precise fit. Sewing patterns, however, are drafted to specific body measurements, and then ease is added. Ease is the extra room in a garment that allows for movement and comfort. A well-fitted garment requires careful measurement and selection of the correct pattern size.
Key Measurements You Need to Take
To accurately size a sewing pattern, you’ll need to take a few key body measurements. These measurements are the foundation for choosing the correct pattern. Always use a soft measuring tape for accuracy.
- Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust, keeping the tape parallel to the floor.
- Waist: Measure around your natural waistline, which is usually the narrowest part of your torso.
- Hips: Measure around the fullest part of your hips, typically about 7-9 inches below your natural waist.
- Back Waist Length: Measure from the prominent bone at the base of your neck down to your natural waistline.
How to Find Your Pattern Size
Once you have your measurements, consult the sizing chart on the back of the sewing pattern envelope. This chart will list the pattern sizes and their corresponding body measurements.
Example: If your bust measurement is 36 inches, your waist is 29 inches, and your hips are 39 inches, you would look for the pattern size that most closely matches these figures. It’s common to fall between sizes for different measurements.
| Measurement | Pattern Size 10 | Pattern Size 12 | Pattern Size 14 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bust (inches) | 32.5 | 34 | 36 |
| Waist (inches) | 25 | 26.5 | 28 |
| Hips (inches) | 34.5 | 36 | 38 |
In this example, if your measurements were Bust 36", Waist 28", and Hips 38", you would be a size 14 according to this chart.
Choosing the Right Pattern Size: Navigating the Chart
The pattern envelope is your best friend when it comes to sizing. It contains all the information you need to make an informed decision. Don’t guess; measure and compare.
Reading the Back of the Pattern Envelope
The back of a pattern envelope typically features a chart with body measurements for each pattern size. It will also list the finished garment measurements, which include the ease. Understanding the difference between your body measurements and the finished garment measurements is key.
What If Your Measurements Don’t Match One Size?
It’s very common for your measurements to fall into different sizes for bust, waist, and hips. In this situation, it’s generally best to choose the pattern size based on your largest measurement, which is often the bust or hips. You can then alter the other areas to fit.
For instance, if your bust is a size 14, but your waist is a size 12, you would cut out the size 14 pieces and then take in the side seams at the waist to achieve a better fit. This is a fundamental sewing alteration technique.
Considering the Pattern’s Ease
Different patterns are designed with varying amounts of ease. A very fitted or "slim" pattern will have less ease than a loose, flowy design. Always check the pattern description for information about the intended fit and the amount of ease included. This information is usually found on the front or back of the envelope.
Taking Accurate Body Measurements for Sewing
Precision in measurement is paramount. Even a slight inaccuracy can result in a garment that doesn’t fit correctly. Invest a few minutes in taking accurate measurements.
Tips for Taking Accurate Measurements
- Wear minimal clothing: Measure yourself in thin undergarments or close-fitting clothing.
- Stand naturally: Don’t suck in your stomach or puff out your chest. Stand relaxed.
- Keep the tape level: Ensure the tape measure is parallel to the floor, especially when measuring the bust and hips.
- Don’t pull too tight: The tape should be snug but not digging into your skin.
- Have a helper: It’s easier to get accurate measurements, especially for the back waist length, with assistance.
Understanding Your Measurements and Pattern Adjustments
Once you have your measurements, compare them to the pattern size chart. If you need to adjust for different sizes, remember to blend between sizes at the seam lines. This is a common practice for achieving a custom fit.
For example, if you’re blending from a size 14 bust to a size 12 waist, you would draw a new seam line from the bust point down to the waist, tapering from the wider size to the narrower one. This is a crucial step in pattern alteration.
Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
Even experienced sewers can sometimes misjudge sizing. Awareness of common mistakes can help you avoid them.
Pitfall 1: Relying on Ready-to-Wear Sizes
As mentioned, this is the most common error. Always measure yourself and consult the pattern’s size chart.
Pitfall 2: Not Accounting for Fabric Stretch
If you’re working with knit fabrics that have stretch, you may need to size down. The pattern’s sizing chart is typically based on woven fabrics. Check the fabric recommendations on the pattern envelope.
Pitfall 3: Ignoring Finished Garment Measurements
The finished garment measurements on the pattern envelope tell you how large the actual garment will be after it’s sewn, including ease. This is vital information for understanding how the garment will drape and fit.
Next Steps for a Perfect Fit
After selecting your pattern size and taking your measurements, the next logical step is to consider making a muslin or toile. This is a practice garment made from inexpensive fabric to test the fit before cutting into your fashion fabric.
Making a Muslin for Fit Testing
A muslin allows you to identify any fitting issues and make necessary adjustments before committing to your final fabric. This is especially important for garments with complex construction or when you’re trying a
