Sewing a Coat Button Properly: Tools and Techniques

What type of thread provides the most durability for attaching heavy buttons to outerwear?

Bonded nylon thread is the superior choice for heavy outerwear because it resists abrasion and moisture better than standard polyester. It maintains its structural integrity even when subjected to the constant friction of buttoning and unbuttoning a thick wool coat. Many people assume that thicker thread is always stronger, but using a thread that is too thick can actually weaken the fabric by forcing the needle to create holes that are larger than necessary, leading to premature tearing around the button site. Stick to a medium-weight bonded nylon for the best balance.

How do you determine the correct needle size for thick coat fabrics?

The needle size must correspond to the weight of the fabric and the thickness of the thread to prevent skipped stitches or damaged fibers.

1. Match the needle gauge to the thread weight; a size 100/16 needle accommodates thicker upholstery-grade threads without shredding them.
2. Inspect the needle point; use a universal point for most wools, but switch to a sharp or leather point if the coat fabric is densely felted.
3. Test the penetration; the needle should pass through all layers of the coat and the backing button without excessive force.
4. Check for burrs; a damaged needle tip will snag the coat fabric, leaving permanent pulls that ruin the exterior appearance.

What is the purpose of using a shank when sewing a button onto a coat?

A shank provides a necessary vertical gap between the coat fabric and the button, allowing the buttonhole flap to sit neatly underneath the button without puckering the coat. Without this clearance, the fabric becomes compressed and distorted, which ruins the drape of the garment. For a heavy wool peacoat, the shank should be approximately 3 to 5 millimeters high to accommodate the thickness of the overlapping wool layers.

This technique is essential for functional buttons that must slide through thick buttonholes. However, if you are sewing a decorative button that never passes through a hole, you can sew it flush to the fabric. In these instances, a shank is unnecessary and might even cause the button to hang awkwardly or catch on other objects, detracting from the finished look of the coat.

How can you reinforce the backside of a coat to prevent the button from pulling through the fabric?

You reinforce the backside by distributing the mechanical stress of the button across a larger surface area on the interior of the garment.

• 1 small button: Place this on the inside of the coat, aligned with the outer button, to act as a counter-anchor for the thread.
• 2 layers of interfacing: Use a scrap of heavy-duty fusible or sew-in interfacing behind the coat fabric to provide extra body.
• 3 centimeters of ribbon: A short length of grosgrain ribbon sewn vertically behind the button placement prevents the thread from cutting through the coat fabric.
• 4 stitches per hole: Make sure the thread passes through the interior reinforcement at least four times to lock the assembly firmly in place.

What is the difference between a two-hole and a four-hole button application technique?

The choice between two-hole and four-hole applications depends on the button's design and the desired level of security, with four-hole buttons offering superior stability.

Use the cross-stitch pattern for the highest security on heavy coats, as it distributes tension across all four points of the button equally.

How do you properly secure the thread at the end of the sewing process to ensure it does not unravel?

Secure the thread by creating a series of tight, hidden knots directly beneath the button, buried within the fabric layers.

• 1 final loop: Pass the needle through the loop of the last stitch before pulling it tight to create a secure knot.
• 2 inches of tail: Leave enough thread tail to wrap around the shank base three times before burying the end.
• 3 hidden passes: Thread the needle back through the coat fabric and the backing button to trim the thread cleanly on the inside.
• 4 tight wraps: Secure the thread by wrapping it firmly around the shank base to prevent the button from wobbling over time.

What steps should be taken to ensure the button is perfectly aligned with the buttonhole?

Alignment relies on marking the exact center of the buttonhole while the coat is fully buttoned and lying flat on a table. Use a tailor’s chalk or a marking pen to poke through the center of the buttonhole onto the fabric underneath. This makes sure that the button sits precisely where the hole naturally falls when the coat is closed. If the button is positioned even a few millimeters off, the coat will pull, creating unsightly diagonal drag lines across the front.

One nuance to consider is the ease of the garment. If the coat is intended to be worn over a thick sweater, button it over that layer before marking the placement. This accounts for the extra bulk, which shifts the natural position of the buttonholes. Failing to account for this internal volume often results in a coat that pulls tight or gaps awkwardly when fully closed.

Are there specific tools, such as a tailor's wax or a button foot, that simplify the sewing process?

Yes, using a piece of beeswax to coat your thread reduces friction and prevents tangling, which is vital when working with thick, multi-ply threads. A button foot attachment for a sewing machine can also make sure a consistent 3-millimeter shank height on every button you attach.