Yes, unsanforized denim will shrink when washed, typically by about 5-10%. This shrinkage occurs because the cotton fibers in the denim are relaxed and have not been pre-shrunk by the manufacturer. The degree of shrinkage depends on the weave, the water temperature, and the drying method used.

Understanding Unsanforized Denim and Shrinkage

Unsanforized denim, often referred to as "raw denim," is denim that has not undergone the sanforization process. This process is a mechanical pre-shrinking method that aims to reduce the amount of shrinkage that occurs after the garment is purchased. Manufacturers use sanforization to stabilize the fabric and make it more predictable in terms of fit.

When you wash unsanforized denim, the cotton fibers absorb water and swell. As the fabric dries, these fibers contract, pulling the denim tighter. This is why it’s crucial to understand how to wash and dry your unsanforized jeans to achieve the desired fit.

Why Does Unsanforized Denim Shrink?

The key to understanding shrinkage lies in the construction of the denim fabric. Denim is made from cotton, a natural fiber. In its raw state, cotton fibers are somewhat elastic and can be stretched during the weaving process. Sanforization mechanically stretches and shrinks the fabric to a predetermined size before it’s cut into garments.

Without this pre-treatment, the fabric retains its natural tendency to revert to its original, unstretched state when exposed to water and agitation. This is why washing unsanforized denim is an integral part of the break-in process for many enthusiasts.

How Much Will My Unsanforized Jeans Shrink?

The amount of shrinkage can vary significantly. Generally, you can expect 2-5% shrinkage in the waist and inseam for most unsanforized denim. However, some weaves and cotton types might shrink more.

• Length (Inseam): This is often the area with the most noticeable shrinkage.
• Waist: Expect some shrinkage here as well, though it can be less predictable.
• Thighs and Seat: These areas may also shrink slightly, contributing to a more snug fit.

It’s important to remember that the shrinkage is permanent. This is why many people choose to size up when purchasing unsanforized jeans.

The Best Way to Wash Unsanforized Denim to Control Shrinkage

Washing unsanforized denim is a delicate process. The goal is often to minimize shrinkage while still cleaning the jeans and initiating the fading process.

Cold Water Wash is Key

Always use cold water for the first wash. Hot water will cause more aggressive shrinkage. A gentle cycle is also recommended over a heavy-duty one.

Minimal Detergent or No Detergent

For the initial washes, consider using minimal detergent or even just plain water. This helps prevent harsh chemicals from affecting the indigo dye and the fabric’s texture. If you do use detergent, opt for a mild, color-safe one.

Hand Washing vs. Machine Washing

• Hand Washing: This is the most controlled method. Fill a tub with cold water, add a small amount of detergent if desired, and submerge your jeans. Gently agitate them for a few minutes. Drain the soapy water and rinse thoroughly with cold water until no suds remain.
• Machine Washing: If machine washing, turn your jeans inside out and place them in a mesh laundry bag. Select a cold water setting and a gentle cycle. Avoid using the spin cycle if possible, or use a very low spin setting.

Drying Your Unsanforized Denim

This is the second most critical step after washing. Never put unsanforized denim in a hot dryer. The heat will cause maximum shrinkage and can damage the fibers.

• Air Drying: The best method is to hang your jeans to air dry. Gently shake them out to remove wrinkles and hang them from the waistband or inseam. This allows the fabric to dry naturally and minimizes further shrinkage.
• Tumble Dry (Low Heat): If you absolutely must use a dryer, use the lowest heat setting or an air-only setting. Keep a close eye on them and remove them while they are still slightly damp.

Sizing Up: A Common Strategy for Unsanforized Jeans

Because shrinkage is inevitable, many consumers choose to size up when buying unsanforized denim. This means purchasing a waist size or inseam length that is larger than their usual size.

How to Determine Your Size

1. Measure Your Best-Fitting Jeans: Lay your current favorite pair of jeans flat and measure the waist and inseam.
2. Consult the Brand’s Size Chart: Unsanforized denim brands often provide detailed size charts that include pre-wash and post-wash measurements.
3. Factor in Expected Shrinkage: Based on the brand’s recommendations and general knowledge, add an inch or two to your measurements to account for shrinkage.

Example: The Shrinkage Calculation

Let’s say your favorite jeans measure 32 inches in the waist and 32 inches in the inseam. You’re buying a new pair of unsanforized jeans that you know typically shrink about 5% in the waist and 10% in the inseam.

• Waist: 32 inches + (32 * 0.05) = 33.6 inches. You might consider a 34-inch waist.
• Inseam: 32 inches + (32 * 0.10) = 35.2 inches. You might consider a 34-inch inseam, or even 36 inches if you prefer a longer break-in.

This is a simplified example, and it’s always best to refer to the specific brand’s guidance.

When to Wash Your Unsanforized Jeans

The timing of the first wash is a hotly debated topic among denim enthusiasts. Some prefer to wash them as soon as they get them home to get the shrinkage over with. Others wear them for months, even years, before the first wash to develop unique fades.

Washing for Fit vs. Washing for Fades

• Washing for Fit: If you’re concerned about achieving the perfect fit and want to get the shrinkage out of the way, washing them early is a good strategy.
• Washing for Fades: If your primary goal is to develop personalized fades, you’ll want to wear your unsanforized denim as much as possible before the first wash. This allows the fabric to mold to your body and create unique wear patterns.

Common Mistakes to Avoid with Unsanforized Denim

Many people make mistakes when first encountering unsanforized denim, leading to less-than-ideal results.

Don’t Use Hot Water

As mentioned, hot water is the enemy of unsanforized denim if you want to control shrinkage. It leads to excessive and unpredictable